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The story

The Charm of Italian Jewelry from the 1950s

Merù's perspective: between tradition and freedom
from Merù
March 20, 2026
3 min read

“In the 1950s, a renewed desire for luxury and an unbridled zest for life manifested itself in jewelry after years of austerity, with a return to the predominance of gemstones, which were also chosen with a clear investment purpose.”

Italian Jewelry, Melissa Gabardi

The Charm of Italian Jewelry from the 1950s

With the gradual economic recovery of the post-war period, in the atmosphere of the “Dolce Vita”, the return to social life also awakened the world of jewelry: beauty was no longer restrained, but expressed itself in a richer and bolder way.

The shining gold, full and generous shapes, and gems of intense colors together constructed a vibrant visual language full of vitality. This upward momentum reflected people's desire to rebuild their lives from the rubble and to return to creating beauty.

The style of the 1950s is distinguished by a marked variety. Naturalism, exotic suggestions, abstractionism, and traditional elements coexist and intertwine, breaking the sobriety imposed by the wartime period.

Merù Tank Bracelet

Compared to the solidity and composure of the 1940s, the design of this period leans towards a new lightness and fluidity: thin gold threads, overlapping diamond structures, and forms marked by a harmonious rhythm give the jewelry a refined and immediately recognizable elegance.

At this same moment, Italy begins to emerge. Fashion and jewelry no longer speak only the language of Paris: a freer, bolder aesthetic takes shape.

Merù rigid bracelet ballerina amethyst

It is in this atmosphere that Merù is born.

In Milan, in a watchmaking workshop in the Brera area, a first language takes shape. The traits of the 1950s are present: full volumes, materials combined freely, a subtle balance between ornament and everyday life.

But Merù is not limited to Milan.

Merù has always preserved a form of freer expression. In the continuous movements of the founder Francesco between Milan and his homeland, Sardinia, this sensitivity has progressively amplified: the sea breeze, the sunlight, and the rhythm of the island have infused the design with a more natural language — fluid lines, organic shapes, and light yet present structures that can almost merge with the environment.

Wristwatch, Merù archive collection, Milan

Zodiac necklace, Merù archive collection, Milan

From classic bracelets Fishing line, light and functional for the day, up to the more scenic creations designed for festive moments, Merù always maintains an extraordinary expressive freedom, adapting naturally to different contexts.

Bracelets “Fishing line”, Merù archive collection, Milan

In the 1960s, in Porto Rafael, this same spirit finds another presence.

A place imagined by Count Rafael Neville, where the idea of freedom and life resonates with the spirit of Merù. Between Milan and the island, this duality merges over time into a continuous form.

Archive of the first production by Francesco "il Merù", Merù Jewelry, Milan